Remove the damaged rod with a hand-grooving tool. If the original seam was grooved using a routing machine, you can easily remove the weld rod with a hand-grooving tool. If the original seam was grooved using a hand-grooving tool, you may have problems with the seam being wider in places and removing the rod with a hand-grooving tool could make the seam even wider and possibly harder to weld with the new rod. When grooving the seam, take out the width of the original rod. It is not necessary to groove out the entire depth of the rod. As long as the original rod is firmly bonded, this will not create any problems.
Once the seam has been grooved and cleaned out, you can weld the seam with the new rod following the recommended temperature settings for the flooring material. Skive the excess rod from the flooring surface in two passes. On the first pass, skive away the top part of the rod using a spatula knife and trim plate while the rod is still warm. The rod must be cooled to room temperature to remove the remainder of the rod on the second pass. Remove the remaining rod by holding the spatula knife flush with the flooring surface while skiving.
Note: If the resilient flooring in the repaired area was being maintained with floor polish (finish) consider applying one or two coats of that same floor polish to the repaired seam. If the original welded seam was being maintained with a field-applied coating for use on welded seams, consider applying a thin, even application of Armstrong S-762 Weld Rod Coating Pen. Use care when applying the finish to avoid over-application onto the wear layer of the adjacent sheet flooring material. In high traffic areas, apply one or two additional coats making sure the finish is completely dry between applications.